British textile designer Jacqueline Groag was an innovator during the mid-century contemporary era — bringing shade and styles to a monochromatic submit-war Europe, coming up with dwelling furnishings, textiles and materials for fashion residences these types of as Chanel, Lavin and Paul Poiret.
The Palm Springs Artwork Museum Architecture and Design Centre is profiling her with the exhibition “Sample Play: The Present-day Designs of Jacqueline Groag” that includes some her groundbreaking designs.
The exhibition, which opened in Might, is on display screen through Nov. 20 and was curated by Darrin Alfred, the curator of architecture and style and design at the Denver Art Museum.
For the duration of a latest walkthrough of the exhibition, the scent of vintage fabric from the dresses and textiles permeated the gallery previous the vibrant tulip patterned indicator introducing the exhibition with a mannequin sporting 1 of Groag’s attire featuring a pattern of village residences.
Groag, who was born in the Czech Republic in 1903, is viewed as to be one particular of the most influential and versatile sample designers of the post-war era. Her layout get the job done includes textiles and furnishings for British Rail and the British Abroad Airways Company. She died in 1986.
Pursuing World War II, designers this sort of as Groag and her contemporaries celebrated a renewed perception of freedom that outlined midcentury modernism as we know it through creativity bringing shade and vivid and dynamic patterns to home furnishings and style.
“This idea (was) coming out of limitations related with the war and rationing and not having accessibility to a great deal of textiles,” Alfred instructed The Desert Sunlight.
A 1946 British journal deal with featuring Elizabeth Alexandra Mary, who would afterwards become Queen Elizabeth II, sporting a dress showcasing Groag’s tulip style is incorporated in the exhibition and speaks to the attractiveness pattern designers had during that time period.
“(The designs) were well-been given,” Alfred reported. “Right after the war, you’d locate printed textiles that would be used for curtains, bedding and there were upholstery materials produced with these very present-day, vibrant and modern-day sample designs were wildly well-known.”
Numerous of the styles on things these types of as a 1950 yellow gown fabric with black intersecting lines, clovers, hearts and squiggly strains are summary. A 1955 cloth featuring toy soldiers repeats alone with the drum switching from still left to proper.
The whimsical and lighthearted artwork of Swiss-German abstract artist Paul Klee’s was an impact to many write-up-war designers, alongside with images from nature and new technological know-how these kinds of as x-rays and atomic strength. But as the optical illusion design and style of “op art” sprung up, alongside with the “pop art” of Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein, present-day art continued to affect structure.
“All through the 1960s, an individual like Groag was influenced by op artwork and pop artwork as opposed to the artwork Paul Klee was producing prior to that,” Alfred stated. “(Designers) were also keen or mindful of traits and items that were being widespread and employing all those present visuals or inspirations to produce suitable patterns for that time time period.”
Alfred said he chose Groag’s get the job done to expose some of her imaginative course of action, which is revealed as a result of some sketches of done will work subsequent to the closing product or service.
“Some of these drawings split down how she produced all those patterns beginning with an underlying grid framework and then implementing designs or visual motifs in just that construction,” Alfred explained. “Then how she commenced to consider about implementing color to the designs and the a number of colorways that would be offered for all those specific textiles.”
If you go
What: “Pattern Perform: The Modern Designs of Jacqueline Groag”
When: Now by November 20
Exactly where: Palm Springs Artwork Museum Architecture and Style and design Heart, 300 S. Palm Canyon Drive
How considerably: $5 for typical admission and totally free for youngsters 18 and under, museum associates and army/to start with responders
Much more info: psmuseum.org/artwork/exhibitions/sample-engage in
Desert Sunlight reporter Brian Blueskye handles arts and enjoyment. He can be achieved at [email protected] or on Twitter at @bblueskye.